Saturday 10 September 2016

Bhutan – the land of mountains, clear water and Dzongs




One can hear the music of the river and feel the serenity of the mountains in this land called Bhutan



Thimpu
This is the capital city and our 1st stop in Bhutan. Landed in Paro city and drove to Thimpu. It felt like one just has to follow the river to reach the destination! Paro Chhu, the river from Paro led us to Wang Chhu, the river of Thimpu and that’s how we got there. Thimpu was a surprise! As the capital city, we expected it to be big and bustling. It was hardly that! The city seems to be the base of a mountain and the size of 3-4 blocks! I would say that it is the cultural capital having all the administrative houses and the King’s residence. I say residence rather than palace, because from a view point, the fortress looks bigger than the king’s residence and I heard that the king lives simple.
The fortresses in Bhutan are the most beautiful sight one can encounter! There is one fortress in every district. These fortresses are called as Dzongs. They can serve as monasteries or administrative or both together. Every Dzong is similar in architecture. In fact, every building in Bhutan is similar in architecture. Bhutan believes in preserving its architecture and does not allow for changes in style. All the dzongs have a courtyard, temple, administrative offices and accommodation for monks. Dzongs are the most interesting among all the sights in Bhutan. These dzongs serve as fotresses and each of of them is situated in a strategic location. Dzongs were established by Ngawang Namgyal, known as Zhabdrung Rinpoche. He and his successors built the fortresses in order to unify Bhutan. These fortresses are present in all the strategic locations of Bhutan. Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel is the most revered figure in Bhutan. He established religious unity through Buddhism. He is the 3 most important figure in Buddhism in Bhutan, after Gouthama Buddha and guru Padmasambava.





Bhutan has an interesting mix on power and spirituality. Observe the nation’s flag to recognise the duality in leadership.


Thimpu is also the place on Great Buddha Dordenma, said to be the world’s largest sitting Buddha with a height of a little more than 50 metres. Situated high on the mountains, this statue can be seen from anywhere in the city. The statue is made of bronze and gilded with gold.



Takin reserve holds the national animal of Bhutan, Takin. It is a protected species which looks like it has the head of a goat and the body of an ox!



Thimpu also has a textile museum which describes the history of weavers. Tradition attire for men is called Gho and for women it’s called a Kira. I went shopping for Kira and found that it’s quite costly, since its handwoven.

Punakha
Going out of Thimpu to Punakha needed a separate permit and our driver obtained it for us. It was around 4 hours by road. It was a bumpy ride owing to bad road condition. We stopped on the way to visit the fertility temple, Chimi L'hakhang Temple . We had to hike up to the temple in the hot sun and we felt it could have been skipped, especially on a hot afternoon! Evening found us at a river side resort in Punakha having a conversation with the river.

Punakha was the earlier capital on Bhutan and is now popularly called as the winter capital.
Located at the confluence of Phu Chhu and Mo Chhu rivers, this is the Punakha Dzong is the most beautiful Dzong in Bhutan.




We spent a day to travel to Phobhjikha valley, which is the home to the black necked cranes. However, we caught no sight of them since they migrate only in late October. Although the valley is beautiful, the roads were bad and the drive was not worth it without the sighting of the famous birds.



Paro
There is only 1 way between these 3 cities so we retraced our steps, Punakha - Thimpu - Paro. Paro is a sight filled with paddy fields and sounded by the Paro Chhu river. 
We reached in afternoon and went straight to the Dzong after lunch. By now, we could recognize a Dzong from a distance. This Dzong however, had more monks.

Next day, we decided to trek to Tigers nest locally known as Taksang - the most iconic spot in all of Bhutan. One does not experience Bhutan until you have hiked to this monastery!
It's a long and strenuous hike but the view is worth it! However, go only if you want to hike for about 2-3 hours up and 1.5 to 2 hours down. I struggled both uphill and downhill.
Food at Bhutan!



We tried the famous Bhutanese dish, Ema Datshi. It’s made of green chillies and cheese!! It was fund trying this out with the local red rice. We also had Thupka which is a Tibetian noodle soup widely available here. Indian dishes are also easily available here! In every hotel we stayed we found the kitchen staff friendly and accommodating, much better than the staff at the lobby!

Veg Thupka

Ema Datshi


Some trivia collected!
  • Chhu means clear water
  • Ngultrum is the currency and is equivalent to Indian Rupees. Indian currency is widely accepted in Bhutan.
  • Dzongkha is the language in Bhutan. However, most everyone speak English as it is part of their school curriculum.
  • India has friendly relationship with Bhutan. An Indian would need just an entry permit, election ID card would be sufficient; you don’t need a passport to go to Bhutan!
  • Bhutan economy is driven by hydroelectricity followed by tourism.
  • Bhutan has opened up to foreigners only about 4 decades back.
  • Roadways are still under development and would be in a good shape by 2020.


Thursday 25 August 2016

An evening in Calcutta



Yes, I was here for just 1 evening, during transit to Bhutan, but I still felt the urge to pen down this experience owing to the memories collected that had to be shared.

We reached late afternoon and I instantly felt that there was something in the air. As I do every time I go to a new city, I instantly consulted Google for temperature. It showed 33, feels like 44 degrees Celsius. I dint understand these feelings that Google states until my experience in this city, travelling in a cab, without AC. The air is thick enough to give you a solid dose of heat, but I see no sunshine, only an overcast sky.

We were staying at the Astoria Hotel located on Shakespeare Sarani Road and that’s when I realized the traffic situation here, it’s tough!!!

Our plan was to cover Victoria Memorial, Howrah Bridge and New Market. It was raining intermittently, but heavily throughout the evening and we managed to cover just Victoria Memorial and Howrah Bridge. We enjoyed the walk in the beautiful garden at Victoria Memorial. Howrah bridge turned us into looking and feeling like drowned cats! However, we manged to catch the sunset over the bridge and that made it all our effort worth it!

Victoria Memorial

Howrah Bridge


Ended the day with street food on Park street! Jhal muri, ragda patties, sandwiches and rabdi - can't ask for more here!


Calcutta as I prefer to call it, is a perfect blend of old and new. There was this one road near the Salt Lake stadium that had huts on 1 side, high rise apartments and malls on the other, and a metro rail line running above. Beat that!!

This city, with a touch of the English era, with flyovers and decent roads, with modern apartments and malls, has character! I will visit again to explore this city to my heart’s content.


Monday 25 January 2016

Chilly cosy Ooty


Sitting back at home, pondering on what was the one thing that was most awesome in Ooty. Was it the combination of the chilly weather and our lack of preparedness for it? Was it the double deluxe valley facing room which gave us our isolated time with nature and our cosy-much-loved fireplace? Was it our long bike rides which resulted in our shoulders aching with all that break-holding? I think it was my best friend with whom I experienced it all. God bless friends, life would be so dull without them.

Ooty welcomed us with its chilly weather and sunshine, which resulted in a ferocious tan. We rented a bike at the very beginning of our stay and created our own schedule. First on our list, Avalache and emerald. This is about 30 kms from Ooty (everything worth seeing is about 30kms from Ooty!). Started off eager, after a Tamilian breakfast of Pongal and masala dosa. The ride was hard and the terrain beautiful. We encountered wonderful views and tiny hamlets. We encountered kind people who never hesitated to guide us. We did not use google maps and exclusively depended on sign boards and locals, brave us! Emerald is a dam, a little further to the dam leads to the waters, so beautiful. Avalanche is a forest offering safaris. Back to our hotel with the promise of a fire and hot chocolate. We got in before sunset, lest we lose our way.


Our hotel, Sherlock rested on top of a hill, was not easy to get to, the road was rustic. Our stay here was simply amazing! The cottage with its own private garden, the valley view and the hospitality, which was the one of the best I have experienced.

Next day we woke up at our leisure and decided to explore Pykara waterfalls. The ride again was hard with lots of hairpin bends and the view was a bit different from the previous day’s. The previous day had us hopping from one village to another, today it was just the highway and us and the beautiful tall trees lining the roads. We had to climb down to view the waterfalls, not the best waterfalls I have seen, but it was good to be among the tourists! On the way we caught a few viewpoints which made our trip fruitful.



Evening found us at Charing cross, the main city place of Ooty, hunting for chocolates! It was home-made chocolates in every other store! We made our way through them and finally ended our stay with a wood fired pizza at the sidewalk café, which earned my stamp of approval!